April 9
The problem with riding on the Autoroute, is that the only good views come while you're in transit so apologies for the rather boring one here. I'll try to do better later!
Despite the rich dinner the night before, the portions were sensible..taste being the key not quantity. I slept well and was able to manage a light breakfast before the off. As I stepped out of the hotel towards the underground garage, it was into a clear blue, warm morning. A perfect biking day. The electric door of the garage hummed up and parked at the back, uncovered, was the Road King Classic. Without getting soppy about it, I was beginning to form an affinity with the bike. It's one thing to have a motorcycle in your garage at home for the odd weekend rideout, it's another to live with the bike on the road for five days. The Harley delivered every time. Starts at the push of the button and carries on, eating the miles without complaint. With another of those happy, contented feelings, I loaded up the Rigg Pack and wearing just a t-shirt under my jacket headed, once more, for Autoroute E15 and South.
Today, I would leave France, enter Spain and the last 550 miles of the trip down. Next stop Girona. After about 100 miles, I saw the signs for Millau and knew I was about to see one of the greats sights of France. The Millau Viaduct.
Designed by Norman Foster, the span is 2.5km and it weighs 36,000 tonnes so, heavy as the Harley is, it seemed safe enough... Having paid a fiver for the privilege of crossing (very worthwhile as the detour is about an hour)I decided to stop at the next Aire for fuel and a cup of coffee. Once again, there was a sharp intake of breath as I paid the equivalent of £25 to fill the tank. For God's sake, it doesn't seem that long ago you could fill a car for that amount. The coffee however, was much better priced and as good as any in a top restaurant.
After giving the bike a quick check, I was ready to head for the border.
The countryside was beautiful and very slowly, I started feeling the change. The trees were becoming smaller, there were hints of blossom in the air and there were no chilly little draughts around my neck or legs. The GPS, which had seen me straight for the last four days with direct routes and early warnings of speed cameras, was finally defeated by major roadworks on the last stretch of the French autoroute near Perpignan. By generally following the compass, heading south and translating as best I could some strange diversion notices, I was back on track after thirty minutes or so. Funny though, as I waited to traverse a roundabout, I saw day running lights in my mirror that looked remarkably similar to mine and sure enough, up arrived a pristine diamond-white Road King with coordinated rider and lady pillion even down to their tans and perfect white teeth. With the dust of the road on both me and the bike, I felt a little "inferiour" in such company. However, with a flash of knashers and a flick of long blonde hair, Mamselle called out something like "Vive la soleil" and off they went.Twenty minutes later, I started seeing signs for the border and shortly, the road widened out for the crossing.
Although I was now quite high in the Pyrenees, I hadn't really noticed the climb or any temperature difference, unlike my entry to the Massif Central a day earlier. Shortly after crossing the border, I started the slow descent towards Girona. The French roads are kept in top condition which is amazing given the thousands of kilometres of autoroute they have to maintain. Spanish roads..well, they are OK but less so. There is definitely a hint of Manyana in the air but that's fine, it's why I'm here. Little else to note on the run to Girona apart from the difference in the service stops to France. Petrol is the same high price but the standard of catering has just dropped about ten notches. I'd like to have stayed in the centre of Girona but this is a timed mission and I need to stay near the E15. The Novotel Girona Airport is comfortable, roomy and as with all Novotel's has a good restaurant.
Sipping a cold Rose with a plate of delicious Calamari's, I reflected that I'd come a long way and tomorrow was the last 360 mile leg.
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