My Harley Davidson Touring Blog

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Sunday 19 September 2010

Well, that's it for this year. A three day trip in which we covered 456 miles in some beautiful countryside finishing a year where the Road King clocked up some 4000 miles. Added to that, H and I also did another 800 or so in the USA. The Harley has been excellent, never missed a beat and provided a comfortable seat on some pretty long journeys. Also, I think some praise for the Tom-Tom Rider which, once you get used to the strange logic, does the business time after time. My days of riding in foul weather are over so next week the Harley goes in for a service and then it will be plugged into the Optimate, covered up and enjoy a rest until next March.
Quite a few people have logged in from places as far apart as Australia, Glasgow, the USA and India with some Middle East readers for company as well. So, thanks for looking, I hope something here may be of help or interest to you. In the meantime, enjoy what remains of the season where you are and above all, ride safe!
Best wishes
Juneau

Saturday 18 September 2010

It was dawn on the morning of March 18th 1918. My fathers elder
brother (by some eighteen years) was a Serjeant (correct sp) in the
Royal Irish Regiment having fought with them since 1914. Through
attrition and good performance he had worked his way up to his rank
and now, with tens of thousands of other men attached to the Fifth
Army group he waited in a stinking trench outside St Quentin for the
opening rounds of the battle all the men knew was coming...The
Kaiser's Big Push. By now, with America's involvement in the war,
Germany knew they would lose so this was now a land grab to at least
achieve something. As the sun lightened the eastern sky, the German's
unleashed a bombardment that could be heard in Dover. It was at some
point then that the young Irishman, who had fought so bravely for
nearly four years, was immolated into nothingness along with three
thousand of his comrades.
The Poizieres memorial commemorates these men. Those whose bodies
could be found are buried there. The rest, some fourteen thousand
missing men, have their names etched in marble on the Walls which
surround the structure and that is where I found Patrick's name nearly
ninety three years after he died, the first person in the family to do
so.
The graveyard and memorial site is everything it should be. Quiet,
respectful and desperately sad. Nothing can give those young men back
the lives they could not live but at least here, they are remembered
and can truly rest in peace.

Yum. Parfait...!

Early morning in Amiens. I don't think we could manage to get the
bikes much closer to our table. I had an urge for Cafe au Lait avec
Croissant. "Pas problem" said Madame as she sent her son off to the
bakery for some fresh baked examples.
Saturday morning in the sleepy little village of Vignacourt. The
residents are sipping coffee and munching fresh croissants when the
stillness is broken as nearly 3 litres of the MoCo's finest iron rides
into town. Actually, my bike is a nice legal version but H, who should
know better, has retro-fitted a pair of shotguns. The result sounds
like a Lewis machine gun on full chat. An unfortunate similarity for
the flat acres of the Somme. H decided he could not remember where the
farmhouse of his youth was. Personally, having been told more detail
of his exchange visit last night with the addition of some snippets
about the farmers daughter, I think I frightened him with visions of
thirty year old offspring ready to shake him warmly by the throat.
So, without more ado, we headed to Amiens for breakfast.

Sent from my iPhone

Friday 17 September 2010

So, here we are arriving at Abbeville. Straight into a police
roadblock for....a bicycle race. I guess these guys followed us from
Rotterdam. After 15 minutes or so Messeuir in the White car started to
give Le Flic an admirable amount of abuse which, it has to be said,
was taken stoically with a Gallic shug. In the UK, I fear he would
have been liberally sprayed with something pungent and hauled of to
the local nick. Abbéville not particularly interesting but good meal
in the Ibis. Tomorrow, Vingnacourt where H stayed on a school exchange
many years ago. "Have you kept in touch?" I asked. "Nope, haven't
spoken to them for forty years'. Well, that should be a warm and
emotional meeting then...
Following this dubious reunion, we'll make our way to the Poizieres
memorial where I'll try to find my step-uncles inscription.

The Brassiere...

A pleasant little Brassiere on the way to Abbeville. Somehow, a Ham
Omlette becomes Haute Cuisine when you eat it in Framce.

The Eurotunnel Motorcycle Club meeting. The sportsbikes were heading
for Chamonix to get some mountain riding in before the snows arrive.

Monday 13 September 2010

The WW1 Somme Battlefield Tour

So, we have decided to head out to the Poizieres memorial and WW1 Somme battlefields this weekend. We will catch a morning Eurotunnel on Friday and then head for Abbeville to overnight. Saturday sees us in Poizieres and we also hope to view some major battlefields. Saturday night is in Lens and then a slow ride up to Calais for a Sunday afternoon train back. 226 miles plus another 150 in the UK. A good way for H and myself to sign off the 2010 touring season.

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Monday 6 September 2010

WW1 War Graves Tour

Just a quick update on the above, our plan is to set off from Dover on the 17th September and make our way to the Somme battlefields for a 3-day trip. More on the actual route and map to follow.

Friday 30 July 2010

WW1 Battlefields

In March of 1918, my fathers elder brother was killed in Amiens. A member of the Royal Irish rifles, Patrick was 22 years older than my father and had made the rank of Serjeant (correct sp) at the age of 26. My father was very proud of the brother he never really knew and had always wanted to visit the memorial, for no body was ever recovered and therfore there was no grave.. My father died in 2004 at the age of ninety without fulfilling his wish, so I would like to do it for him made by visiting the war graves and memorial at Pozieres.
H and I have therefore decided to do a short WW1 Battlefield tour in September.
Of all the journey's I have completed, I think this might be one of the most poignant.

Monday 26 July 2010

Old Reliable takes a
rest near Bristol on the way to Bath.

The Holiday Inn Plymouth. Good rooms and nice meal in the Penthouse
restaurant.

The Lido in which the seawater is circulated through twice a day...
500,000 gallons apparently.

No sign of Armada's today...or Bowls playing...!

Looking across the Lido to Drakes Island

For American friends, here is a plaque by the Mayflower Steps to
commerate where it all started...

Thursday 22 July 2010

UK Run

Starting a one week trip tomorrow which will see me visit, Camberley in Surrey, Devon, Bath and St Albans. Not quite up to Southern California or Spain so I won't bore anyone by writing a trip report but if I have any extra special meals or see some interesting sights, I'll try to post.

Monday 5 July 2010


All on board and the end of the trip. In summary, we set off on Friday morning and covered 445 miles with a total riding time of 12 hours. Both bikes came in with consumption of around 48-50MPG. Cost of the trip, including meals, ferry, hotels and Tunnel about £550 each or £140 per day. What are the memories? Chocolate box perfect town of Delft and its happy citizens celebrating a world cup quarter final as if they'd won the cup. Lovely, friendly people welcoming to their guests. Riding from Delft to Turnhout and hitting a thunderstorm which nearly drowned us as we ingested copious amounts of water through open helmets. Stopping in 27c to put on waterproofs as the rain poured down and having set off again, seeing the sun come out after a mile so therefore looking stupid (and hot)in heavy raingear.
A nice waitress in Turnhout introducing H to Duvel beer. A mere 8.5% proof bottle later, she helpfuly informed H that Duvel is Flemish for Devil.
Finally, noticing that every bike we passed or met had a rider with a friendly salute and every rider we spoke to on the ferry or tunnel was just as we'd expect...a brother.
H and I have decided that the next trip will be Northern France. Don't know when but before the end of this summer.
By the way, I've noticed a few people coming back to have a look at the site from time to time. I started off by keeping this blog as a record for myself but if you have the time, please do let me know through the comments facility whether you want me to carry on with the blog as a public site..critisism good or bad is welcome!
Blue skies
Juneau

More Harley's arrive to join us. These guys had come up from Spa.

The last leg completed, we arrived into Calais two hours after leaving
Brugge. The Adonnes Hotel is recommended. Friendly staff all of whom
were really interested in the bikes. Last night we ate in the Market
square. Bad move. Expensive, formula food. Find a little gem in the
back streets, half the price and chef's who try harder.

Having protected both Harley's overnight, Arthur required twenty
minutes of 'chase the ball' before allowing us to leave.

Sunday 4 July 2010

Arrived in Brugges after a good 4 hour ride. Think we've seen more
Harley's in Belguim than when we were in California.

If Carlsberg did cycling......

Stopped here for lunch en route. Dunno where we are, just following
the GPS. Lovely countryside and temps around
24c.

Leaving Ter Driezen, Turnhout for Brugges.

Saturday 3 July 2010

Turnhout has a busy Market square which is full of life but sometimes,
it is the areas away from the bustle which provide reflective moments.
We came across this walk after an excellent Italian meal just off the
main square.
We travelled 76 miles today through heat and thunderstorms. Rotterdam
provided interesting moments as we tried to transit the city without
ending up in the Tour de France. Both bikes continue to impress with
their resolute performance, eating up the miles and delivering us to
where we need to be.
Tomorrow, a late Sunday breakfast and 90 mile to Brugges.

The good citizens of Turnhout know exactly where their town fits in
the world order.

The Ter Driezen Hotel in Turnhout which used to be the Mayor's
residence. The current owners have been running it for 22 years. Very
friendly and welcoming.

I don't think H takes the Harley dressing up bit seriously. Shortly
after this photo was taken, we were
caught in the Mother and Father of a thunderstorm. However, soaking
wet, we arrived at the hotel so now out to the Market square for a bit
of sightseeing and a few Stella's.

Rather than take the boring motorway route to Turnhout, why not go the
longer more interesting way? We could even go through Rotterdam. What
a good idea! Only time you wouldn't want to go through Rotterdam would
be if...oh, I don't know...how about if the Tour de France was riding
through? 33c in town stopping at lights and bridges while the gps
went crazy trying to reroute us. Bl:::y pushbikes!

Picture postcard perfect. This shot taken from the table where we had
breakfast. We were most impressed with Delft. Nice place, nice people.

S'funny, when parking the bikes in Delft, we paid a little more
attention to the exercise than normal.

Friday 2 July 2010

11pm local time and we've had a hot days riding. 32c when we arrived
but this evening about 25c. Perfect evening. Ride the bikes into
Delft, walk around, have a couple of beers and steaks in a market
square cafe and watch the celebrations. We're at the Grand Winston and
the hotel have allowed us to park just outside reception. Good day!

So, been a while since we last chatted H. Let's have a quiet meal in
Delft and catch up on life.
Not on the evening that Holland beats Brazil into the Semi's we won't...
Tonight, we were honorary Dutch. Great company, all enjoying
themselves without a glimmer of bad behaviour.

After six hours on the calmest of calm seas, the Hook of Holland
approaches.

The perfect cabin at sea. A stocked, free minibar!

Harley Davidson? Common as muck...
Having pulled up in the bike parking area, we were quite surprised to
see a collection of Road King's, Glides and another FatBob. Good company

Meeting at East Bergholt. Excellent ride through back roads to
Harwich. Blew the cobwebs away....

Well I Never...

Isn't technology wonderful... I've just found out how to post to the
blog by email from my iphone and yes, I know that while this is a revelation for me, twelve-year olds will be sniggering.
This is a rather bad picture of a circular rainbow seen from the garden yesterday. It's nothing to do with motorcycle touring apart from providing a test upload to the blog and perhaps being a good omen for the weather. So, as long as I have wi-fi accessibility, I will try to keep the blog updated as the trip progresses.

Thursday 1 July 2010


The GPS is loaded, the Harley's ready to go and the weather is looking like it will be a scorcher over Northern Europe for the weekend. The ferry from Harwich leaves at 09:00 tomorrow but we're aiming to get there an hour or so before to get on-board and hit the restaurant for breakfast. One of the benefits of living just 20 miles from the port means I only have to leave the house around 7:15 to meet up with H at 7:30 and board half an hour later.
Compared to the last two trips the Rigg Pak is pretty much under-utilised as we're only away for three nights. Two t-shirts, 2 shorts, pair of shoes and....well, thats it really. Plenty of space in the Rigg and bags for some plonk on the way back.
I was hoping to bring a laptop with me for en-route photos and reports but my small one is playing up with the "blue screen of death" appearing every 20 minutes and my multimedia laptop is about as suitable for a lap as a Harley Davidson Road King is for World Superbike. We'll see what the iPhone can offer but more likely the next report will be after the event.

Monday 28 June 2010

Weekend Netherlands, Belguim Trip


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Weather's good, bikes have been resting for a month, so time to get on the road again. H and I have decided to do a "round-trip quickie" taking in the Harwich-Hook of Holland ferry, Delft in the Netherlands and Turnhout, Bruges, in Belguim returning via Calais. This coming Friday through Monday. Will try to post details as the trip progresses. Next update on Thursday night before departure.

Thursday 24 June 2010

France/Spain Trip Statistics

Total Mileage 2237 Ridden

Cost of Tolls £86

Eurotunnel £29

Ferry £325 (Cabin cost £125)

Hotels & Meals £467 (6 hotels)

Fuel £185

Average speed Out 61 Back 69 (Averages exclude UK riding legs)

May 3 Well, despite all the volcano problems which messed up departures and visits of friends and family to the villa, we had a great holiday. Three weeks of sunshine right up to the morning I was due to leave Moraira and suddenly, in came the cloud and cooler weather. My trip back was going to be shorter in terms of riding as I really couldn't face just retracing my route through France. So, my first leg was to take me to Zaragossa in the middle of Spain. I was up early on the morning of departure to rebuild the bike. Well, actually the screen, bags and racks. The bike had been a handsome boulevard cruiser in its "undressed" state and was quite a feature of nightime Moraira for a few weeks. I set off at 10:30 and after fuelling up, headed for the Autopista and north to Valencia. I reached Sagunto after two hours and then peeled off East on the A23 to head inland. The landscape is very different here and after a few hours of riding, the rocky white ground started to give way to green hills and ochre earth. The Spanish have entered into the spirit of natural energy at a pace that should put the UK to shame. Literally hundreds of wind turbines dotted the gently rolling Rioja hillsides. I decided to take a quick stop at one of the rest areas to pay homage to a field of grapes whse juice would one day fortify an excellent bottle of wine.
Although warm, the sky was gettting darker and as my GPS steered me to the Ibis Hotel in the centre of Zaragosa, the first spits of rain began falling. The Ibis was magnificently worse than average with no restaurant and a small bar so I ended up going to a local Supermercado to buy some food to take to my room. No sooner had I returned, than the heavens opened accompanied by an ear-splitting thunderstorm.

May 4
Next morning I was up early as I'd heard the rain beating on the windows most of the night and wanted to make an early start for Bilbao. However, when I went out, although damp and drizzly, the sky looked reasonably clear so I just stayed with my textile gear. Bad mistake. Five miles down the road, it started lashing down so hard, I couldn't see. For the first time in many years I had to stop under a bridge and get the raingear on. Once again, I cursed the Harley Davidson brand manager for allowing the MoCo's name to be put on such a useless and incompetent piece of clothing.It's happening too much with HD clothing and people will soon start to walk away. The ride was pretty miserable and I was glad to arrive early into the Novotel in Bilbao which turned out to be an excellent hotel. For the first time on my trip, I was exhausted and with muscles aching, I fell into the bath and then slept like a top all night.
May 5
My ferry was due to depart at midday but boarding started at 10:30am so I decided to get over to the port and board early to settle down.Although my GPS did its stuff, strangely, there are few, if any, signs towards the port..certainly, I didn't see any Brittany Ferry notices. Hoping that I wasn't going to end up on a cargo ship to Panama, I rounded a few corners and there in front was the ferry and quite a small queue. I'd decided that I'd earned a Captains Cabin on the way back and this gave priority boarding so, before I knew it, I was watching the guys lash down the bike for the 30 hour journey up the Atlantic coast of France and across the channel. With various hoots, PA announcements and little bumps, we were on our way and leaving the coast of Spain in the distance. The boat offers a type of mini-cruise and for those who want it, there is entertainment ranging from floorshow's and disco's to palaegic creature watching from the top decks. The part of the Atlantic we were sailing in was, in some places, 9000ft deep and home to many Whales and Dolphins. Both species are sighted regularly on the trip and specialist members of the crew provide various conservation agencies with vital information. In fact, the ship is also a scientific station electronically uploading information on micro eco-systems and sea temperature changes. There is a wealth of information as amazingly, they have been surveying these data for more than 40 years. After stooging around on the top deck for twenty minutes or so, I too saw three or four pods of dolphins playing in the bow waves. Nice life.My cabin was a delightful affair with two windows looking out over the bow and situated just beneath the Bridge. It came with a free, stocked mini bar and lots of fresh fruit. Having stowed what I needed to and unpacked the rest, I headed for the restaurant and an early dinner at 6:30pm. My plan was to eat, drink and sleep. Langan's have the franchise on board and I enjoyed a good meal in the 1930's style restaurant. What better way to spend a few hours than in the company of a decent Chablis and a grilled Dover sole, next to a window looking out onto the Atlantic Ocean?
The first part of the crossing that night and early next morning was rough, very rough. Although I'm lucky enough to be a good sailor, it's hard to sleep in a normal bed when you're being thrown around. Now, give me a hammock and I'd have been fine. Eventually at about 6am, I just gave up and went for a walk round the ship. By the time I returned to the cabin, we'd rounded the Channel Islands, arrived into shallower water and everything calmed down.
May 6
After grabbing a couple of hours sleep, I headed off for a light breakfast at about 10;30am. We were due to dock at 3pm and I was starting to clock watch. Really, I just wanted to get home now. Luckily, my iPhone had started picking up UK signals so I was able to catch up on email and texts and call the family to let them know I was going to get in early. It seemed ages fromm sighting land to the time when we actually entered the portOnce the boat gets in,, there's a lot of faffing about before you can actually get off. In the end, however, as with all these things I was off and starting my 200 mile journey up the M3, around the M25 and then the final leg on the A12. Obviously, I won't bore you with that journey suffice to say the temperature dropped to 5c and I haven't been as cold since I stupidly agreed to ride to Cornwall, in January, on a Triumph T100c, in 1973. Still, I'd reached the end of the trip and as I sat there thawing out with a mug of tea and a slice of toast, I felt well chuffed!

April 10
Today was going to be a 360 mile sprint to Moraira. By now the weather was hot. I opened all the vent zips on my trousers and jacket and at my steady 65, this provided enough cooling. I'm glad I was on the Autopista because on the one occasion I stopped for the autopista peaje, the heat from the bike was immense. In fact, Harley have thought of this and you have the option to set a cylinder cut-off in the engine management system for just such an occurence. The idea is that one less cylinder firing in traffic will reduce the amount of heat being pumped upwards. Maybe it works in major traffic jams but I didn't notice much difference on a short stop. Having cleared the toll, I now set my head down and wound the speed up to 75. The Classic leapt forward as if to ask why we hadn't been doing this before. Further and further south, the miles clicked by and just past Tarragona, I caught my first glimpse of the sparkling Mediterranean sea. Weather started to get hotter and hotter and now I had to keep my jacket and visor open.
After another hour or so, Valencia appeared on the nose and I knew my journey south was nearly at and end. I hadn't been exactly rushing things but there is something satisfying about setting off on a journey near Ipswich, in cool, green surroundings and arriving 1300 miles and four days later into a sunbaked, white and dusty land where palm, orange and lemon trees grow. So it was, an hour later, I pulled up to the Villa in Moraira.
It was 4pm and after all that distance, the only injury I suffered was to my back as I lifted the RiggPak off for the last time!
For now, the sissy bar, screen and rack came off and I gave the bike a good wash down. A quick photo and I left her to rest for three weeks.